"As Tahrir Square erupted, protests swept through Luxor, a city of nearly 500,000 best known for its spectacular ancient ruins. One demonstrator was reportedly killed. At a cafe I find Omar, a former tomb restorer who now runs a restaurant and wouldn't give the rest of his name, taking long, slow drags on his shisha and sipping tea, whiling away the hours. People raided the police station, he said, 'and we took away their guns and they ran away.' The police, he said, looted Karnak Temple, but 'all the people stood on the highway and set up road blocks and checked each car; for 20 days we guarded the tombs. Tourism is our business, so we protected it.'"